From the acclaimed owner of Brooklyn’s Diner, Marlow & Sons, Marlow & Daughters, Reynard, The Ides, Achilles Heel, She Wolf Bakery, Marlow Goods, Roman’s, and the Wythe Hotel comes this debut cookbook capturing a year’s worth of dishes meant to be shared among friends.
Andrew Tarlow has grown a restaurant empire on the simple idea that a meal can somehow be beautiful and ambitious, while also being unfussy and inviting. Personal and accessible, Dinner at the Long Table brings Tarlow’s keen eye for combining design and taste to a collection of seventeen seasonal menus ranging from small gatherings to blow-out celebrations. The menus encompass memorable feasts and informal dinners and include recipes like a leisurely ragu, followed by fruit and biscotti; paella with tomato toasts, and a Catalan custard; fried calamari sandwiches and panzanella; or a lamb tajine with spiced couscous, pickled carrots, and apricots in honey.
Dinner at the Long Table includes family-style meals that have become a tradition in his home. Written with Anna Dunn, the cookbook is organized by occasion and punctuated with personal anecdotes and photography. Much more than just a beautiful cookbook, Dinner at the Long Table is a thematic exploration into cooking, inspiration, and creativity, with a focus on the simple yet innate human practice of preparing and enjoying food together.
With nine outer-borough eateries and shops in his portfolio, Tarlow, more than anyone, has been responsible for defining Brooklyn's artisanal food scene. But perhaps a more pertinent credit on his r sum is that, along with Dunn, he runs the arty food magazine Diner Journal. For never has a cookbook felt more like a literary journal than in this debut effort by the publisher-restaurateurs. Tarlow and Dunn begin with a 10-page poem and photo work entitled "Eat Sunshine" ("bathe in olive oil/take care of strangers"). Next, there are recipes and instructions for creating 17 different feasts or informal dinners. As in a collection of short stories, each piece has a gripping title ("The Tomato and the Sea," "A Clam for Twelve"), poetic turns, and romantic notions. The "Ragu at the End of Winter" is a three-day affair beginning with a Friday trip to the butcher, a Saturday of browning and simmering, then a Sunday noon pasta course followed by a platter of veal shanks, coppa, ribs, meatballs, sausages and oxtail. A wedding anniversary dinner begins with bouillabaisse condensed to three little words "Stock. Nuance. Scum." and joined by a saffron rouille, olive tapenade, a plate of squid and "fruit as an illusion," small bowls of poached pears. Photographs, by the Canadian duo Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott, are not so much instructional as atmospheric. Are we in Williamsburg or Toronto, Marseilles or Rome? This long table has a leg in each.