The sun was setting and the only place to anchor was at the entrance to a small stream. With anchor down, we jumped into a dinghy to explore the dense jungle the stream penetrated. After a hundred yards or so, we stopped the outboard. Now the fauna slowly recovered from our racket and jungle noises began: bugs, birds, and mystery sounds. We saw colorful parrots and then-by the hundreds-the brilliant scarlet ibis. Then monkeys! Totally quiet, they watched us intently, warily, irritated by our encroachment into their world.