Where Hash Rules

Where Hash Rules is the success story of a family that was willing to roll up its sleeves from the depths of immigrant poverty to produce generations of satisfied, loyal customers and offspring who have reached the upper echelons of white-collar America. This family has served turkey hash, eggs, and toast in ample supplies but have surpassed those generous portions, in quantitative and qualitative terms, with love, gratitude, and respect for all who have entered the restaurant.


The difference between Charlie's and just about every other restaurant in Boston is manifested in the looks on the faces of princes and paupers, queens and drag queens, billionaires and rock stars, and ditch-diggers and bums who have sat down and felt immediately satiated.


Whether by the sultry nature of Fontaine, the endearing smile of Marie, the wry gaze of Chris, or the gregarious laugh of Arthur, itinerant passers-by have been welcomed to become regular customers, regular customers have become friends, and friends have become lovers. Births, weddings, divorces, funerals, illnesses, glories, and tragedies have been equally celebrated and suffered.


Charlie's has evolved to become a central part of folklore for Boston. It has reached legendary status without self-promotion, pretense, or aplomb.


In its early days, it served African-Americans when no other restaurant in town would do so. Sammy Davis Jr., who grew up just one street over from Charlie's, used to tap dance in the doorway for spare change. Duke Ellington dined there. Joe Louis, too. The Pullman Porters had their Boston headquarters on the building's second floor and original owner Charlie Poulos was admitted as the only non-black member so he could play cards and shoot pool. When the restaurant ceased operating on a seven-day, twenty-four hour basis, a locksmith was called because no one could find a key to secure the front door.


Boston – and particularly the South End/Back Bay area – was tough, rough, and gritty in 1927. In many ways, it still is due to an integral mix of old money, new money, blue-collar laborers, white-collar executives, criminals, immigrants, and castaways. It is impossible to measure the profound effects that Fontaine, Arthur, Marie, and Chris have had on this area of the city. Their story, and that of their families both near and extended, is the quintessential tale of the hopes and dreams of all immigrants to the United States. It is a tale that in the modern world might seem archaic; in some respects, it is an allegorical fable that transcends time and place. And, like Arthur's training to complete 26.2 miles just fourteen months after his heart attack, it is a marathon.


In addition to stories about the many colorful characters to have graced Charlie's over the years, Where Hash Rules includes recipes from foodies and chefs who are fans of the establishment.