Head Waggling in Delhi

For centuries, India’s mystical allure has drawn in visitors in search of enlightenment, riches, romance, and adventure. In the mid-1990s, as a precocious twenty-three-year-old, author Eytan Uliel and his girlfriend set off on a journey of discovery, leaving behind the comforts of Sydney to backpack in India for four months.


Limited to a budget of twelve dollars a day, they lived, ate and traveled like locals. The journey around the sub-continent took them north to south, east to west: from the holy city of Varanasi to the modern-day playground of Mumbai; from the desert fortresses of Rajasthan to the bucolic backwaters of Kerala. Along the way they sipped tea in Darjeeling, experienced a train ride from hell to Madras, got bit parts in a Bollywood film, ogled at the incomparable Taj Mahal, hung with hippies in Goa, and met a whole lifetimes’ worth of fascinating, entertaining and memorable characters.


Head Waggling in Delhi offers timeless insight into life on the road in India—the good, the bad and the downright bizarre—filled with wry observation, affection, and humor.