I Love Pies and Tarts

PUBLISHERS WEEKLY AUG 22, 2005

An unabashed enthusiasm for pie and all its crusty cousins crostata, tart, crisp, cobbler sweetens this cheerful, accessible collection of recipes by Kershner, best known for her desserts at the New York restaurants Town and Union Pacific. An expert in the often-perplexing world of dough making, Kershner is also a judicious tutor. Her first chapter breaks down the delicate science of handling gluten and includes the formulas for several basic crusts. These serve as the foundation for the recipes that follow, where fillings range from fruit, nuts and chocolate to onion, spinach and cheese. Kershner devotes considerable attention to traditional, regional American classics: apple and peach pies, Key Lime Pie, Southern-style Bourbon Pecan Pie, and other diner counter goodies. She supplements these with less predictable alternatives like dense Walnut Caramel Tart and elegant Lemon Tartlets. For more casual bakers, a chapter on rustic desserts features free-form Mixed Berry Turnovers and Pennsylvania Dutch Apple Dumplings. The instructions are easy to follow and the text is particularly encouraging for beginners. Helpful tips explain when frozen blueberries can be used instead of fresh and how to make your own buttermilk. Leaving out complicated techniques, Kershner teaches pie making at a basic level, keeping her book as simple as her subject.