Twenty Years Around the World

By the advice of my physicians my second sea voyage was by the ship Norma, which sailed from the port of New York on the 20th of January. After a passage of fourteen days, with alternate gales and calms, we sighted Abaco, and the Hole in the Wall. We crossed the Bahama Banks; the water was of a bright blue color, with a clay bottom, which was distinctly seen. The thermometer went up to 72°, so we threw, off our winter-garments, and put ourselves in summer apparel.

A cheerful sight was the old Moro Castle, at the entrance of the harbor. It has three hundred guns, and is built upon a rock. Opposite stands a new fort called the Punta, and three hundred yards from the Moro Castle is a gigantic work called the Cabana. These defences are on an immense scale, with heavy rock excavations, and are said to have cost eighteen millions of dollars. When the bill was presented to the Court of Madrid, the old King Ferdinand asked if they were made of silver. The passport system is onerous and rigorous here; but time and progress will produce a change.

The landing, or shipping-port, is a stout, well-planked wharf, of great length, sufficient for the landing of cargoes: vessels lie head on, and discharge and receive over their bows. Our ship anchored in the stream, and boats took our baggage to the Custom-house. We were struck by the novel sights on landing. A large number of negroes was employed in unloading ships, and transporting merchandize, singing the while theirmerry sailor songs. Mules with heavy saddles, and small trucks on two wheels, were waiting for our effects. Huge carts for heavy goods were drawn by oxen, with rings in their noses, and yokes resting on their horns. Next comes the Volante, or pleasure carriage, which is universally adopted, and, although odd-looking at first, it is extremely comfortable, and is adapted to the climate. Figure to yourself a pair of wheels from seven to eight feet high, and shafts eighteen feet long. Upon these shafts a chaise body suspended with leather-straps. At the extreme end of the shaft the horse or mule, with his braided tail tied up to a large Mameluke saddle. Upon that saddle a shiny, black negro, with leather leggings strapped up to his knees; shoes and spurs, and coat and hat of livery. The hacks, which are rather rusty, stand about the squares for customers; but the equipages of the nobility and wealthy citizens are really magnificent, and the sight of the fair sex, in full dress, on a gala-day when hundreds are seen on the Paseo, is one of the most pleasing and beautiful to be found in any country.

I have just witnessed a display of the kind; some three hundred Volantes were present with a band of music. The vehicles go up on one side of the Paseo and return by the other, driving through a paradise of garden. An accident occurred; the lancers on horseback were instantly on hand to preserve order. The police is numerous and efficient; the men carry spears, and a lantern in the night. The military force is large, and belongs to the regular troops from Old Spain.