Cups and Their Customs

A convivial toast begins with “Touch brim! touch foot!”—but the history of the cup reaches back to vessels made from the skulls of enemies. What, the authors ask, can a shared drink tell us about the people who raised it?

Published in Victorian England, Cups and Their Customs brings together recipes for compound drinks and a brisk, curious history of drinking’s ceremonies, from ancient customs to the festive table. George Edwin Roberts and Henry M. D. Porter hope to replace the era’s “stereotyped drinking” with cups carefully made, pleasantly flavoured, and enjoyed in good company. Along the way, they trace the curious lives of words and drinking vessels, and offer practical hints for anyone new to the art. Their guide is convivial, but not a plea to drink without measure: its ideal is a little, well-made cup, shared in fellowship. How did the cup become a custom—and what belongs in one today?

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