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Description de l’éditeur
Traditional tailoring is a fascinating craft, which has not changed for many centuries, however, the techniques are now known only by a few practising in the best couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. Nothing feels quite so luxurious or sophisticated as bespoke clothes, but the tailoring skills they require are often seen to be shrouded in mystery and the clothes therefore only accessible to the rich and famous. This practical book reveals the trade secrets of couture tailoring and brings vintage couture tailoring within the reach of all. With step-by-step photographs and professional tips throughout, it shows how a ladies' jacket is made and thereby introduces a range of fundamental tailoring techniques. These can be used for garments for either gender, as well as other sewing projects: moulding fabric to shape with the iron; employing loose interfacings; hollow shoulder construction; pad stitching canvas; interlining and weighting hems;making tailored and bound buttonholes;.... and many more forgotten techniques.Written by a tailor of international repute, Vintage Couture Tailoring is dedicated to all who appreciate the highest standard of craftsmanship, and who like using their eyes and hands to produce beautiful garments.Vintage couture tailoring is practised by only a few establishments around the world today and this practical book reveals the trade secrets of couture tailoring. An invaluable guide for professionals wishing to further their skills, and for enthusiasts with an interest in traditional tailoring. Shows how to make a ladies' jacket from preparation through to assembly and reveals the exquisite finishing details that are the hallmark of couture tailoring. Superbly illustrated with 417 colour step-by-step photographs.Thomas von Nordheim is a tailor of international repute.
If readers are intrigued by the photos of an exquisitely tailored jacket on the slipcover of this book, they may want to pick it up: the creation of that jacket forms the bulk of the text, covering nine out of the 12 chapters. This is not a typical sewing book, full of projects and tips. Instead, von Nordheim, a couture house trained tailor who runs a successful tailoring business in London, painstakingly guides readers through the myriad steps required to measure, cut, mock up, and sew just such a jacket. The attention to detail is intense, but it makes complete sense coming from a man who observes, "traditional handcraft tailoring in its pure form is the base for all other sewing. A tailor can make a dress, but a dressmaker cannot make a tailored jacket." The techniques presented, one assumes, can be used on other garments, although no other garment is shown. While the publishers deserve credit for including dozens of photos, the quality of these pictures can be poor, with less than professional background and lighting. American readers should also note that the book reflects its British origins in many measurements and some vocabulary. Perhaps the biggest flaw of the book, however, is also its great strength that single-minded devotion to the pure tailoring skill needed to create a single couture jacket. Full color photos.