Byline: Ameer Hamza I am also on assignment to photograph the historical architecture of the Raj. So, as part and parcel of the deal I am travelling to Chaman, that most oxymoronic name that any town in the country could have been given. Chaman means 'garden' in Urdu. And, as I will soon witness, there isn't much in the way of gardens out there. The people of Chaman don't like gardens. They like smuggling.