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Publisher Description

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

GENRE
Biography
RELEASED
2015
6 August
LANGUAGE
EN
English
LENGTH
464
Pages
PUBLISHER
Little, Brown Book Group
SIZE
4.9
MB

Customer Reviews

lrussell5 ,

Superb

Beautifully written, I have never felt so immersed in a surf themed memoir. The vivid, poetic descriptions of memorable rides and sessions are enough to make your eyes water!

Puppy's go go go! ,

Catch this one.

Surfer or non surfer will enjoy this autobiographical tale. A boy to man life story of surf obsession and world travel to surfing hot spots.

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