In May 1996 a number of expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route. Each group contained world class climbers and relative novices, some of whom had paid tens of thousands of pounds for the climb. As they neared the summit twenty-three men and women, including the expedition leaders, were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disorientated, out of oxygen and depleted of supplied, the climbers struggled to find their way to safety.
Experienced high-altitude guide Anatoli Boukreev led an exhausted and terrified group of climbers back to safety before going back out into the blizzard to help others stranded on the mountain. Rescuing a number of people from certain death, he emerged a hero.
The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev is an honest and gripping account of true endurance and contains interviews with most of the surviving climbers, medical personnel, Sherpa guides, and families of the dead who experienced the tragedy.
This edition also includes the transcript of the Mountain Madness debriefing, recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston de Walt's response to Jon Krakauer.
Boukreev was the lead guide for the expedition to Mt. Everest in spring 1996 led by the American Scott Fischer, owner of Mountain Madness, an outdoor adventure company based in Seattle. Like Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer's bestselling chronicle of the same expedition, this account is a gripping account of the Mountain Madness group's bid to reach the top of the world's highest peak, one that combines Boukreev's firsthand recollections and DeWalt's interviews with team members. But Boukreev and DeWalt, a freelance journalist, also offer a look at the mundane tasks associated with climbing, such as obtaining the necessary permits and equipment, and taking the reader through the complex preparations required to scale the mountain, including the establishment of various camps and the acclimatization process required for climbers to adjust to higher altitudes. After steadily moving up the mountain for several days and beginning its final ascent to the summit, the Mountain Madness team encountered an expedition led by Rob Hall, which delayed their ascent. While most of the Mountain Madness clients reached the summit, many did so at a late hour; as they began their descent, they were hit by a fierce snowstorm and darkness fell. Fischer, Hall and three other climbers lost their lives. Boukreev, who claims to have helped save the Mountain Madness climbers who survived, convincingly refutes suggestions made by Krakauer that Boukreev was partly responsible for the deaths that occurred on the mountain that night. This powerful tale will make climbers who are interested in scaling Everest think twice about donning their boots. Photos not seen by PW FYI: Broughton Coburn's October book from National Geographic, Everest: Mountain Without Mercy (Forecasts, Sept. 29, 1997), also offers new insight into the Fischer/Hall climb.