Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Unabridged) Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Unabridged)

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Unabridged‪)‬

    • 22,99 €

    • 22,99 €

Descrizione dell’editore

Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer.

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.

Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.

Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses - off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the listener in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly - he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui - is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves.

As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying listeners with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

GENERE
Sport
NARRATO DA
WF
William Finnegan
LINGUA
EN
Inglese
DURATA
18:09
h min
PUBBLICATO
2015
21 luglio
EDITORE
Audible Studios
PRESENTATO DA
Audible.com
DIMENSIONE
866,2
MB
Surf Is Where You Find It (Unabridged) Surf Is Where You Find It (Unabridged)
2017
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman--Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual (Unabridged) Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman--Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual (Unabridged)
2016
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Unabridged) Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Unabridged)
2015
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean (Unabridged) The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean (Unabridged)
2010
Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast (Unabridged) Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast (Unabridged)
2012
Swell: A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening (Unabridged) Swell: A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening (Unabridged)
2019