Romantic Spain

A cardinal offers John Augustus O’Shea a rare look at the incorruptible body of St. Fernando. O’Shea declines—and keeps the real reason to himself: Seville’s mosquitoes have finally driven him out of bed.

In late-19th-century Andalusia, O’Shea trades Seville’s seductive idleness for Puerto de Santa Maria, a town famed for its spotless streets and bright marble balconies. His journey brings a sacred corpse, a ruinous calesa and a muddy English engineer into the same irreverent frame. With a traveller’s eye for local contrasts—and a wit as sharp as his dislike of discomfort—he finds that tidy Puerto has more to offer than its guidebooks suggest: Atlantic views, an English colony, wine, and a city’s thirst for water. What else will he uncover beyond the neat streets?

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