Spain's Aragón, Zaragoza & the Aragón Pyrenees

When the Moors spread across Spain during the eighth century they could never penetrate the Pyrenees, though they left quite a legacy in other parts of Aragon. By the ninth century the Christians had begun to reconsolidate in the Pyrenees; they formed the Kingdom of Aragon and made Jaca - today the most popular village among mountain sportsters - their earliest capital. The Romanesque churches scattered throughout the Pyrenees stand as a testament to the determination of these rallying Christians. In 1118 they overtook the Moors of Zaragoza, the largest city in the basin. The Moors who remained on the land under Christian domain came to be called Mudejars. For the next 300 years the many skilled artisans among them merged their traditional Islamic decorative motifs with European architectural techniques with remarkable results. Mudejar monuments are still evident in Zaragoza. But it was in southern Aragon that the Mudejar style truly manifested itself, particularly in the provincial capital of Teruel. Zaragoza is one of the finest Spanish cities, a blend of the traditional Castilian air felt in a metropolis like Madrid and that cosmopolitan Euro-vibe that characterizes Barcelona. It is a highly modernized city wrapped around an old quarter on the banks of the Rio Ebro. This area conforms to the original settlement of Caeseraugusta founded by the Romans in 24 BC. The story of 2,000 years can be pieced together in a walk across the city's Plaza del Pilar, where Roman ruins stand alongside a tower built by Moors, down from which is a grand Catholic basilica where legends of a miracle by the Virgin Mary continue to attract pilgrims. That, some might venture, is what traveling through Spain or any other country boils down to - knowledge, gleaned through the desire to do and see what most travelers simply pass by. The Plaza del Pilar encompasses a spectacular range of monuments ranging from Roman times to the present. The Plaza de Cesar Augusto preserves remains of the original Roman Wall, the 15th-century Mudejar Torreon de la Zuda and the 17th-century Baroque Iglesia de San Juan de los Panetes. Aragon claims the highest peaks in the Pyrenees, some of which are still capped by the last surviving Spanish glaciers. You can look above to see eagles, falcons and vultures carving the sky or below to the lush valleys descending through fields of wildflowers tramped by chamois, wild boar, roe deer and backpackers. These valleys shelter ruined villages that have long since been deserted and others that have profited from the surge of interest in the outdoors during the last 20 years. Ainsa, Benasque and Jaca serve as gateways into the wildest reaches of the Aragon Pyrenees and the plentiful snow skiing, hiking, canyoning and whitewater opportunities that await. The author, who has lived in Spain for many years, provides every detail you need to know for an unforgettable visit - where to stay, where to eat, entertainment, activities of all kinds, from hiking to canoeing, concerts to festivals - plus the historical background of what you see. There is also an extensive section on what you need to know when traveling to Spain in general, plus a language and Spanish vocabulary chapter is included. "A great new resource." -- Travel + Leisure. "The perfect companion for planning." -- Rutgers Magazine. "These useful travel guides are highly recommended..." -- Library Journal