Selling Sexy
Victoria’s Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon
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The story of how Victoria’s Secret skyrocketed from a tiny chain of boutiques to a retail phenomenon with more than $8 billion in annual sales at its peak—all while defining an impossible beauty standard for generations of American women—before the brand’s tight grip on the industry finally slipped
Victoria’s Secret is one of the most influential and polarizing brands to ever infiltrate the psyche of the American consumer. Almost right at its start in the late 1970s, the company developed a cult following for its glamorous catalogs. Back then, shoppers had few alternatives to the stodgy department stores that sold most of the nation’s intimate apparel. By 1982, the founders of Victoria’s Secret avoided bankruptcy by selling to Les Wexner, the fast-fashion pioneer behind the Limited, whose empire of mall brands would go on to dominate American retail for forty years.
Wexner turned Victoria’s Secret into a multibillion-dollar business, and the brand’s cultural influence soared thanks to its airbrushed advertisements and annual televised fashion show, which drew millions of viewers each year. Its supermodel spokeswomen, the sweet but sultry Angels, personified a new American beauty standard.
But as our definition of beauty expanded, Victoria’s Secret failed to evolve and reached a crisis point. Meanwhile, Wexner became increasingly known for his complicated relationship with sex trafficker Jeffrey Epstein, his former financial adviser and confidant.
Selling Sexy expertly draws from sources within Victoria’s Secret and across the industry to examine the unprecedented rise of one of the most innovative brands in retail history—a brand that today, under new ownership, is desperately trying to seduce shoppers again.
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Journalists Sherman and Fernandez debut with an enthralling deep dive into the history of Victoria's Secret. They recount how husband-and-wife duo Roy and Gaye Raymond opened the first Victoria's Secret store in Palo Alto, Calif., in 1977, seeking to tap an underserved market for upscale lingerie. Roy's thriftlessness imperiled what was otherwise a thriving business, leading him to sell his four stores in 1983 to retail maven Les Wexner, who updated the Victorian decor; stocked cheaper, tawdrier products to bring in more customers; and pushed for rapid expansion across the U.S. Sherman and Fernandez chart the company's transformation into a multibillion-dollar brand, but the most revealing sections cover the business's beleaguered recent past. For instance, the authors discuss how executives' unwillingness to update their business model for the digital age contributed to the company's mounting financial woes throughout the 2010s, when changing mores around body inclusivity heightened scrutiny of the business's glamorization of thinness. Victoria's Secret also took hits to its reputation after Wexner's close ties with Jeffrey Epstein received renewed attention following the financier's 2019 arrest for sex trafficking, and a 2020 New York Times report revealed that chief marketing officer Ed Razek routinely fat-shamed colleagues and made inappropriate advances toward models. A sharp assessment of the company's financial and moral failings, this pulls no punches.