Cellar Rat
My Life in the Restaurant Underbelly
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4.1 • 12 Ratings
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- $14.99
Publisher Description
Town & Country's Best Books of Spring 2025 | Kirkus Reviews's Most Anticipated Nonfiction of Spring 2025 | Amazon's Best Books of the Month | American Writers Museum's Staff Picks
What happens when a career you love doesn’t love you back?
As Hannah Selinger will tell you, to be a good restaurant employee is to be invisible. At the height of her career as a server and then sommelier at some of New York’s most famed dining institutions, Selinger was the hand that folded your napkin while you were in the bathroom, the employee silently slipping into the night through a side door after serving meals worth more than her rent.
During her tenure, Selinger rubbed shoulders with David Chang, Bobby Flay, Johnny Iuzzini, and countless other food celebrities of the early 2000’s. Her position allowed her access to a life she never expected; the lavish parties, the tasting courses, the wildly expensive wines – the rare world we see romanticized in countless movies and television shows. But the thing about being invisible is that people forget you’re there, and most act differently when they think no one is looking.
In Cellar Rat, Selinger chronicles her rise and fall in the restaurant business, beginning with the gritty hometown pub where she fell in love with the industry and ending with her final post serving celebrities at the Hamptons classic Nick & Toni’s. In between, readers will join Selinger on her emotional journey as she learns the joys of fine fine dining, the allure and danger of power, and what it takes to walk away from a career you love when it no longer serves you.
PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
Working in fancy restaurants starts as a heady rush but devolves into a dehumanizing grind, in this overwrought debut memoir from James Beard Award winner Selinger. The food writer recaps her post-college decade in the industry in the early 2000s, charting her path from waitressing at casual Massachusetts eateries to sommelier gigs at Manhattan fine-dining establishments including BLT Prime and Jean-Georges. She rhapsodizes about the "electric" atmosphere of upscale dining rooms, with their convivial glow, celebrity sightings (Gwyneth Paltrow "tipped ten percent, the icy little troll"), and employee camaraderie, and describes in richly evocative prose how she came to appreciate gourmet cuisine ("I could explain the softness of the meat, how lean it was, how it came from a less worked muscle of the cow"). Along the way, Selinger also catalogs the downsides: long shifts on erratic schedules, an after-hours drinking culture that got her a DUI conviction, and unpredictable, angry bosses. While the sections pertaining to the sexual harassment Selinger experienced and witnessed are harrowing, some of her overarching critiques of the industry as "brutal and unfair and traumatic" feel less potent, rooted more in petty slights than systemic failures. This provides a vivid glimpse behind the scenes of America's most glamorous dining rooms, but falls short as a polemic.
