Malta

PUBLISHERS WEEKLY JUL 3, 2023

With this visually striking tome, Australian food writer and photographer Bajada (The New Nordic) turns his lens on his Maltese heritage, tracing the influences of the archipelago's history and location on its cuisine. Moroccan-inspired anchovy fritters reflect Malta's proximity to North Africa, the tahini-based Halva is Middle Eastern in origin, and a pea-filled Pastizzi perhaps "crept in during England's sovereignty," while the Timpana, an ambitious pasta pie, reflects neighboring Sicily. The collection favors authenticity over accessibility; most recipes start with local ingredients in their original form. There are instructions for making prickly pear liqueur and sheep's milk cheeselets, purging snails, cleaning a squid, carving rabbit for stew, and salt-curing tuna. Sea urchin flesh for a spaghetti dish may be available "at good fishmongers." Fortunately, other key ingredients that make up Malta's unique flavor profile—including anchovies, capers, citrus zest, and mint—are more easily sourced. A novel approach to baked pasta shells calls for filling the shells with cheese and then sealing them with semolina, all before boiling and finally baking them. A stellar dessert chapter includes blood orange tart and Prinjolata cake, a Carnival season tradition. Stunning photography of both food and the Maltese landscape, combined with bits of poetry and history, add texture. It's a vivid snapshot of a fascinating corner of Mediterranean cuisine.