Portal
San Francisco's Ferry Building and the Reinvention of American Cities
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4.8 • 4 Ratings
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- $15.99
Publisher Description
A New York Times Book Review Editors' Choice
“A window to the soul of a great city.” —Inga Saffron, Pulitzer Prize–winning architecture critic
A two-time Pulitzer finalist explores the story of American urban design through San Francisco’s iconic Ferry Building.
Conceived in the Gilded Age, the Ferry Building opened in 1898 as San Francisco’s portal to the world—the terminus of the transcontinental railway and a showcase of civic ambition. In silent films and World’s Fair postcards, nothing said “San Francisco” more than its soaring clocktower.
But as acclaimed architectural critic John King recounts in Portal, the rise of the automobile and double-deck freeways severed the city from its beloved structure and its waterfront—a connection that required generations to restore.
King’s narrative spans the rise and fall and rebirth of the Ferry Building. Rich with feats of engineering and civic imagination, his story introduces colorful figures who fought to preserve the Ferry Building’s character (and the city’s soul)—from architect Arthur Page Brown and legendary columnist Herb Caen to poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Senator Dianne Feinstein.
In King’s hands, the saga of the Ferry Building is a microcosm of a larger evolution along the waterfronts of cities everywhere. Portal traces the damage inflicted on historic neighborhoods and working dockyards by cars, highways, and top-down planning and “urban renewal.” But when an earthquake destroyed the Embarcadero Freeway, city residents seized the chance to reclaim their connection to the bay. Transporting readers across 125 years of history, this tour de force explores the tensions impacting urban infrastructure and public spaces, among them tourism, deindustrialization, development, and globalization. Portal culminates with a rich portrait of San Francisco’s vibrant esplanade today, visited by millions, even as sea level rise and earthquakes threaten a landmark that remains as vital as ever.
A book for city lovers and visitors, architecture fans and pedestrians, Portal is essential reading for anyone interested in the history of San Francisco and the future of American cities.
PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
Urban design critic King (Cityscapes 2) traces in this vibrant account the rise, decline, and rebirth of San Francisco's Ferry Building, using its 125-year history as a case study of the shifting approach to waterfront design in American cities. Built in 1898 at the point where San Francisco met the harbor, the building and its soaring clock tower could be seen for miles. With depots for both ferries and trains, it was also "the principal point of entry" into the city. The Ferry Building survived the 1906 earthquake and post-WWII demolition threats from urban planners bent on replacing it with corporate high-rises. By the 1950s, it faced decline due to loss of ridership to automobiles, bridges that supplanted its iconic status, and the double-decker freeways that severed it from the waterfront. When the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake destroyed the Embarcadero Freeway, residents leapt at the chance to remove the highway and restore their waterfront access. The Ferry Building and surrounding plaza were rebranded as a "lifestyle zone," with a farmer's market and artisanal food shops. King's lively narrative brings to life pivotal local figures, including mayor Dianne Feinstein, who advocated tearing down the Embarcadero Freeway, and influential columnist Herb Caen, whose six decades' worth of columns embodied a growing American pessimism over city planning. The result is an illuminating architectural and social history.
