What do you do when you realise that, as an Anglo-Hispanic, you are just not Hispanic enough? Well, if you are Rudy Noriega you give up your job, put on your walking boots and walk across Spain, following the old pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The hope is that covering five hundred miles can make him Spanish, or at least extend his vocabulary beyond the swear words. Helped and hindered by his fellow walkers on his spirituality-dodging way across the country, he spends the night in a church belfry, walks headlong into a bull-run, and discovers that perhaps he's sadly lacking the qualities of a true pilgrim. As well as heading west, the journey also heads back in time to a forgotten childhood.Even the grumpiest of walkers can find redemption when they eventually realise that you can’t get anywhere without a little help from your friends, even if you don’t really deserve it.