The Willows

The willows clap their thousand little hands as two canoeists scramble ashore—and the narrator begins to wonder whether they have landed in a country that never invited them.

In midsummer, the Danube breaks free of its banks and loses itself among Hungarian marshes, shifting islands and racing channels. A seasoned traveler and his Swedish companion have paddled together for days, but this wilderness feels like a kingdom apart: beautiful, wind-lashed, and marked with warnings only the imaginative can read. As they search for a place to camp, the river’s turbulence and the restless willows make their small patch of sand seem less like shelter than a trespass. What has noticed their arrival?

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